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Some Don'ts and a DoOkay, so here's a list of things that should be a no-brainer, but I still find myself doing from time to time. I also witness things on a regular basis and they will most certainly result in a ruined day of fishing and cost out of pocket. It's only a matter of time...
Dashboard ConfessionsThe resins in modern graphite rods will begin to soften at 150F. Leaving your fishing rod in an enclosed car on a hot day on a continual basis is very much NOT recommended. You wouldn't leave your loved ones in the car; consider not leaving your rod there either. Treat it like one of the family and it will reward you with years of service. Back to TopTotally TubularIf you transport your fishing rod outside of a rod case, it'll get broken - it's just a matter of time. Having it bounce around, rattle and vibrate against itself or other objects on a regular basis will destroy it. Graphite is not the most impact resistance of substances, especially when it's been rolled into a tube with wall thickness measured in thousandths of an inch. Take the extra 5 minutes to gear up/gear down each time you switch to another fishing location that requires driving. Back to TopSock It To ItOkay, so you're good about keeping your fishing pole in a rod case when transporting or not in use. You do have a bag for it, right? No? When not fishing, keep your rod in its cloth bag, within it's protective case. If you don't have a bag, scrap material, like an old t-shirt, or fabric cuts, can be used to wrap the rod in and works quite effectively. This is cheap insurance for a great day of fishing today... and tomorrow. Back to TopBipedal TrompWhen walking any distance, consider breaking the pole down into two pieces. You can leave the reel/line intact, it is just much easier to maneuver with two 4-foot sections in hand than one 8-foot section. Of course, if it's a one piece rod, ya might want to leave it "as is"... Back to TopCar Doors - The Fishing Pole NemesisEver slammed your finger in the car door before? Do you want to subject your fishing pole to that? I didn't think so! Leaning the rod up against your auto with the doors open is a formula for disaster. Car doors are not kind to your rod and the damage caused will clearly not be a manufacturer's defect, so expect to pay to have it replaced (repairing is generally not an option with that much damage). Back to TopA Stick On The Ground Is Worth...This is another certain disaster waiting to happen - never just lay your fishing rod on the ground. It only takes a millisecond to forget and step on it, or have someone else step on it. Always stand it upright against something. If that is not possible then lay it across something so that the rod angles up and the tip is not near the ground. This makes it more visible and someone is more likely to bump into it with their knee, rather than step on it.Back to TopDissolving SolventUsing solvents to clean it. This could damage the finish of the rod, the guides, the guide wraps, the reel seat, etc. A soft clean cloth and mild soap and water work well. Everything can be polished with carnauba wax, which also adds an additional layer of protection. For example, Alcohol is a great degreaser, but will dull some reel seat finishes, as it's a strong solvent. I've used things such as Pledge in the past with no apparent ill effects, but there is an ongoing debate as to whether or not that will lead to long term finish issues. Soap and water is safe.Back to TopWetter Is Not BetterOnly store your rod when dry. Putting a wet rod into a case will likely cause mildew to form and accellerate corrosion on the metallic components.Back to TopClean Socks Are NiceWash the rod sock once in a while. Would you take a shower and put dirty socks on your feet?Back to TopAround The BendDon't bend the tip down to thread the guides (or for any other reason). Instead, place the butt of the rod on the ground and walk away from the reel, lowering the tip towards you to gain the correct height. Bending the tip down puts unnatural, unnecessary stress on the blank. It's only a question of time before you snap it off. I've done it; please learn from my stupid mistakes. This also will be obvious damage and will result in a ruined day's fishing and cost out of pocket. Back to TopWhen A Snag Is Not A SnagBouncing, swinging, and otherwise bending the rod to get free from a snag. This is also asking for disaster and just a matter of time before something snaps. When snagged, always pull the line with your hand; do not use the rod as a "lever", it will just simply take up the force until it breaks. Pull on the line directly with your hand or cut the line if necessary. To quote an old steelhead saying (source unknown) "If you're not getting hung up, you're not steelhead fishing". The point is, snags happen, don't force your rod to deal with it. I've also done this; please learn from my examples.Back to TopWhere's The Ozone?Don't leave it in direct sunlight all the time. This should be a no-brainer, but keep your rod stored in its case when not in use. If you store it in a rod rack on your boat, expect its life span and aesthetics to decrease dramatically. The sun is a killer.Back to TopGive Me A Big Enough Lever...Don't use it to heave the fish on shore. With a little luck, the line will snap before the rod does - but that does not always happen. I've watched people with small fish break rods by trying to swing them onto shore or into a boat. This is not a game of tetherball, please do not treat the fish and your rod as such. Again, the results will be a ruined day of fishing and cost out of pocket.Back to TopLet's Do The TwistDon't push on/pull off the rod sections when assembling or disassembling your rod. This generally results in either too much pressure, causing the sections to stick together, or not enough to lock the sections together, causing the tip section to head off into whatever body of water you're fishing. If you lose the tip section, don't expect a warranty to even come into play. Results will be a ruined day of fishing and a new rod to be purchased. The two sections should be assembled/disassembled using a twist on/twist off motion.Back to TopMore Than A Guide In The Hand?Never use the guides for leverage when twisting the sections on or off. This also results in too much force, causing the sections to stick. It also puts undue stress on the guides and will result in bent/broken guides and damaged guide wraps.Back to TopSeizing Bad, Lube GoodLube the ferrules on a regular basis for ease of assembly/disassembly and increased life span of your rod. Wax can be used, but it builds up over time and attracts grit, which can wear the ferrules prematurely. Instead, I highly recommend U-40 Ferrule Treatment. This stuff is magic and rod sections are silky smooth after applying it. In fact, the VERY FIRST thing I do with a new blank, is to treat the ferrules with U-40. And a bottle will last for years, if you keep the cap on tight.Back to TopAn Actual DO!And of course, DO have fun and make the fishing experience positive for everyone around you!Back to Top
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